| I had to pull apart a spare engine that was in running condition due to a random rain storm that put it under water. I fully disassembled the engine to ensure everything was water free. Apart from pulling heads this was my first time going into the block. The engine sounded a bit loud when it was in the car but I think it was just from super old oil. The cylinder walls bearing etc were beautiful with no marks, scratches or anything of the sort. I was curious, like you are, if I could simply buy new rings or upgrade pistons and put it back together. I emailed Mitch and hear is our conversation (don't think he will mind): ME:
Hi, Im member Livingthedream from the forum. I wanted to ask a few questions just so I could know what my future plans would be for a spare VG that I have. I disassembled the engine after a minor flood and it getting near completely submerged. I found no scoring or pitting on the cylinder walls and all the journals and bearings appeared fine with no marks what so ever. There was a slight bit of surface rust on a few of the walls. Mainly due to me pulling it down and not completely greasing it and fully wrapping it right away. I cleaned the walls using 2000grit sand paper and wd-40 as a lube. Mainly I wanted to get the carbon buildup from around the top edge of the wall, just before the first ring and to clear up the slight rust before I applied grease to protect it from further oxidation. In a case like this if no pitting is present would the block have to be machined for a rebuild? MITCH:
Yes anytime you rebuild the engine the cylinder bores will need to be honed for the fitment of the new rings. This is priority and essential to the ring seating process. Would the original pistons and rods be usable with just a changing of rings. MITCH:
Yes absolutely, but you still would need to have the block machined to accept the new rings to ensure you obtain a good ring seal. While the engine is fully torn down it would be a good idea to replace all oil plugs, check valves, restrictors and freeze plugs. This enables you to thoroughly clean the engine inside and out to rid the block of any and all contaminants. I’d also at that point in time surface the deck of the block and heads to get a new “true” flat deck to start from. ME:
And if one wanted to upgrade the pistons would the block have to be machined or can they fit in a stock bore sized block? MITCH:
Anytime you upgrade or go with a larger size piston the block must be bored and honed to adopt the new size piston you’ve chosen. If you happen to have found aftermarket pistons in the stock bore size then all you’d need to have done would be a good hone finish to the original bores and you can continue as I’ve stated above. ME:
And would you be able to get away with using the original crank and not worry about balancing and all that? MITCH:
If you maintained your stock rods/pistons then you can retain the stock crank without needing it balanced. If you upgrade to a forged piston or anything lighter in weight your crank must be balanced to the new rotating weight present ME:
I live in the Bahamas and if the parts had to be machined I would have to send it to the US in which case it would be safer to purchase a short or long block from you or Kyle. But I would also love the experience of completely rebuilding an engine if it were possible with what I currently have available. MITCH:
Totally understandable. If you are interested in purchasing a short or long block I have many cores on the shelf you could purchase that way you’d only be paying a one time shipping invoice. Let me know if you’d like to set something up. Hope I’ve answered your questions fully. If you have any other questions please feel free to reply.
"torque gets you off the line...& hp gets you over the line." -
TTKeeper |
09:59:34 08/22/13
